Oiling and finishing timber isn’t just the final step in your project — it’s what elevates a good piece to a great one. Whether you’re working on a cabinet, table, or custom joinery, getting the finish right is crucial. Here’s a full walkthrough of the process, from surface prep to staining and applying a hard-wearing top coat.
Step 1: Disassemble and Organize
Before starting any finishing work, disassemble the piece entirely if possible. Remove drawer fronts, unscrew runners and hinges etc., and set aside all hardware in a safe container. Lay out every component separately so that all surfaces can be accessed and finished evenly.
Step 2: Choosing and Tinting the Oil
For this finish, hard wax oil is used — a durable, forgiving product ideal for timber furniture. In this case, a custom colour was needed, so a dark oak alcohol-based stain was mixed directly into the oil at a 30% ratio (30g stain to 100g oil). This prevents blotchy absorption, especially in porous areas or knots, and produces a consistent colour.
Always test different stain-to-oil ratios before committing. Applying alcohol-based dye directly to timber can result in uneven, overly dark patches. Mixing the dye into the oil creates a more viscous and controlled finish. Alternatively, you can try a product such as the Rubio Monocoat Oil Plus 2C Hard Wax Oil range, which has a wide selection of coloured hard wax oils.
Step 3: Application Tools & Setup
Use a foam roller for flat surfaces and a clean brush for tight or detailed areas. Keep plenty of clean rags on hand — wiping off excess oil is a key part of the process. Store oil in flexible bags (like StopLoss bags) to extend shelf life by minimising air exposure. Label and measure each batch to ensure colour consistency across multiple sessions.
Step 4: Applying the First Coat (Stained)
Apply the stained oil evenly in thin coats. Wipe off the excess while it’s still wet, especially in detailed sections, to avoid uneven build-up or glossy patches. Razor blades are handy for touching up areas where glue spots or imperfections resist the stain — just scrape, wipe clean, and reapply oil.
For spot-matching colour (e.g. when one board looks lighter than another), let the stain sit slightly longer before wiping off. Watch closely to ensure the tone stays natural and balanced.
Step 5: Buffing and Second Coat
Let the first coat cure for 24 hours. Then, buff back the surface before applying a second clear coat (no pigment). For high-wear areas like table tops or drawer fronts, consider leaving a slightly thicker rolled-on layer for added protection. Avoid wiping off too much in these zones.
When sanding between coats, use high-quality mesh abrasives like Mirka Abranet. You should see a fine white powder form as you sand — if not, the finish isn’t fully cured and needs more time.
Final Tips
- Thin coats reduce visible marks from supports or drying surfaces.
- The entire process — not including initial sanding — can take 9 to 10 hours (not including drying time) for a piece with moderate complexity.
- Always err on the side of less oil: apply thinly and avoid waste.
- A full 2L tin may be needed for larger furniture projects, even if much of it is wiped away.
With the right prep, tools, and attention to detail, a hard wax oil finish can deliver a smooth, rich, and long-lasting result that enhances the natural beauty of the timber — and stands up to years of use.